Saturday 17 November 2012

"Throw yourself in next time, and rid us of your stupidity!" -Gandalf

Er Herro!

This quote is from the movie. I've no time to search for the book to pick a quote. Must leave to get home before dark! But here's the actual blog...

I've decided I'll blog one more time before I embark on the journey of my last 10 days in New Zealand. I'm nervous about this one. While I'm desperately homesick and craving Mexican food like I could never imagine, I'm nervous about leaving this place that I finally started referring to as “home” only a few weeks ago. Anyone who knows me knows just how much I fear change, so regardless of the fact that I'm aching to be home, I'm sure y'all know just how worried I am about having to change my habits and daily life again.

When I reflected in my journal about what I've accomplished here and what I still want to accomplish, I came up with a few things that I wanted to do that I haven't done, and re-evaluated if they were things I really wanted to do. And so, here are the things I still want to do, and the things I've decided not to do and why.

It's taking forever to upload photos, so you get massive walls of text and a promise of photos if you scroll down!

  1. I decided not to go to Hobbiton. I heard from many people that it isn't really worth the $60, and you can't actually go into any of the hobbit holes, which saddened me. Maybe in another five or ten years I'll be willing to spend the money to get there, and go on the tour.
  2. I haven't ridden on a motorcycle yet. Hopes are high though. I'm not interested in a scooter, so I plan on meeting someone with a motorcycle in the next few days. I hope it happens, but I don't think I'll regret much if it doesn't.
  3. I haven't seen a kiwi, or a tuatara. I gave the tuatara a shot on Somes Island, but it didn't happen. And I decided not to go to a zoo, because it'd be a lot of money just to see one or two animals. Which, let's be honest, aren't particularly cute.
  4. I didn't go sailing. That one's a bit of a shame, but I went on the ferry, and I went kayaking. I'm content with that. I can go sailing somewhere else. At home. And it will still be pretty.

So there are the four things that I didn't do that probably still won't happen. Here's what I still want to do, on my last ten (nine, technically) days in New Zealand.
  1. I originally wrote, in my journal, that I wanted to do another great walk. I sent out postcards saying I was going to hike the Heaphy, but I can't. Bad weather and a bridge that's down make it unsafe. River fording alone isn't a good idea, I'm told. So I'm revising this to I want to do one big hike every day that I'm here. At least 10 kilometers per day is my goal. Today I'll have done that just in coming to the airport to use the free wifi. That'll be 16 kilometers. Unless I decide to picnic for dinner on top of the gondola. Then, hopefully it'll be around 20, but I'm not certain. Whatever. The goal is to walk at least ten kilometers (that's around 6.2 miles) per day.
  2. I want to hike up the key summit of the Routeburn track. This depends on whether or not I can get a ride down there, but hopefully it'll happen. I hear it's beautiful.
  3. Buy possum fur! Probably or potentially either gloves, a scarf, or yarn that I can knit into scarves. We'll see! Either way. I want to buy some. And I don't want to spend all of my savings on it.
  4. And finally, I want to see more Lord of the Rings sites. Either in Arrowtown, on the way to Wanaka, or a 10 kilometer walk from Queenstown, I'd like to see at least one more place they filmed.


Finally! Here's what I've been doing for the last ten days, with my friend Esha, and Snowflake, the sweet little Nissan sedan we lovingly named after our Spring Break trip.




We spent a day in Queenstown. Hiked up the track that ordinary tourists like to take the gondola up. It was spectacular. We feasted on brie and priced-to-clear croissants and imitation thin mints. Incredible views, some yummy food, and I was happy as a clam. Those Mountains are called The Remarkables. And they are remarkable indeed!



In Queenstown, we ate at the iconic Fergburger and Fergbakery. The New Zealand burger company is called Burger Fuel, which I was not a particular fan of. It was too much money for a burger that I ate without a shred of thoughts about a full stomach. It didn't feel healthy, and though it was “good” it wasn't amazing. Nothing to write home about. Fergburger was entirely worth it. $12 for a burger that's nearly as big as your head (let's be honest) and there were REAL greens in it. If you're in Queenstown, you must go there. And only there. You must leave after that. XD



Just kidding. First, have some pie at Fergbakery. I've eaten quite a bit of pie in New Zealand. I wouldn't say I'm a pie snob, since, I mean, I didn't grow up drinking pie, but I know when it's good. Ferg pie was completely mouth wateringly fantastic.




We left Queenstown because really, if you're not going to skydive, bungy jump, go paragliding, take a jetboat ride or a cruise, there isn't much sense in you being here. Which is why it's unfortunate that I have three more days here. (There are hikes. I'll be fine. I'm just whiny.) This photo was taken from The Remarkables Ski area. It's a 15 kilometer drive up, and we were going to hike to Lake Alta, a Lord of the Rings film site, but we found ourselves ill-equipped for snow.




We drove down to Te Anu, which is the town right before Milford Sound. Milford Sound was... disappointing. I remind you that if you click on the photo, it gets bigger. But it doesn't get better. Milford Sound gets a ton of rain every year, so while we were there, it was gross, hazy, and view we'd heard from so many as spectacular, awe-inspiring, and amazing, did not bring me to tears. We were going to hike a few trails, but with the disappointment rising, we decided to leave while we were ahead. If you go to Milford Sound, check the weather, and plan on having enough money to take a water tour of it. There aren't all that many tracks that you can walk to from nearby to see the sound. The most exciting part of that journey? 




The Homer Tunnel! It was FANTASTIC. I may go so far as to say that it was the best tunnel I have been in... ever. Dark and long and going down it felt like a roller coaster (and I liked it better because I could slow down if I wanted to!). So... go to Milford Sound, don't expect to be overcome with its beauty, and prepare to be impressed by the tunnel on the way to get there.  




But a bit of silver lining: due to the rain, there were little waterfalls all around us. New Zealand seems to like being hazy and mystical, so it looked like the water was flowing out of nowhere, or out of the sky. I did enjoy that quite a wee bit.




And onward we went to Wanaka, a few short hours North of Queenstown, and highly less touristy. We found solace. Kayaked on Lake Wanaka for an hour—incredible mountain views, and I love kayaking, and the sun was incredible. I was very happy. Up there? That photo? That's Lake Wanaka. Taken from a kayak.




In Wanaka, we also visited Puzzling World, where we explored a giant maze, and checked out some illusion rooms. The maze took us at least an hour and a half to complete. You're supposed to find your way to the four corners, then to the beginning, which also leads to the center. I took photos of my feet at each of the corners. It was a cool place. The photo was taken from a tv screen, but you can clearly see that I'm tiny and Esha is huge. Except actually it's an illusion. Scary, huh? If anyone's seen the movie Temple Grandin (Mommy!!), you know how this trick works.



We also hiked up Rocky Mountain. I haven't seen the Rockies at home, but it amused me that I've climbed up New Zealand's Rocky Mountain. It was around 550 meters (I think) and a short hike, at only 7 kilometers and a few hours long. However, the top had the most amazing 360 view. We sat there for a minute, just taking it in. There was so much awe inspired there. All of the awe that I was expecting from Milford Sound manifested itself in me on top of Rocky Mountain in Wanaka.



In the distance is Laken Wanaka, taken from Rocky Mountain. So many beautiful views. I have amazing panoramas. Ask me to see them when I get home.


And on a side note, the grocery store in Wanaka was a very happy place indeed. We ate very well for the two days that we were there. Olives, originally priced at four dollars, we got with a priced-to-clear price of one dollar. I also got Greek salad for a dollar, cole slaw, and roasted tomatoes. We made paninis and felt good about life. I like Wanaka. I booked my bus back to Christchurch from Wanaka so that I have to go back there.



After Wanaka, we did a night drive up the West Coast. We skipped over Haast and went straight to the glaciers. Fox glacier was first. The walk to the glacier is only 50 minutes. You encounter more than 50 people. Comforting knowing that you're all leaving with the exact same photos? I think not. That's why I put my feet in. So up there is Fox Glacier. Note the blue patches of ice and be amazed that we got to see that...




But we also did another walk, slightly under two hours, that took us up higher. We had to cross a slightly deep stream, but nothing too serious. It had amazing views, really fantastic, and we only encountered a few people. So, note to self, when possible, do the things that not everyone is doing. We were rewarded. Yay for better views of Fox Glacier!




At Franz Joseph glacier, there aren't really any short walks (we got there in the afternoon) that will give you the same amount of bang for your buck (if you will). We did the normal walk, and it was still pretty nice. We were surprised at how much blue ice we could see.  This is a photo from straight on, where you can see the top really well. There's a mount of rubble in front that's blocking most of the front swoopy part. It does a switchback to the right, which you can't see in this photo.



We also walked to Peter's Point, where we were promised pretty views, but those didn't happen. A nice mirror lake greeted us, and some of the tiniest ducklings I have ever seen. I reminded Esha anytime I don't want to go on a half hour (return) hike, to tell me that there might be cute baby animals.  




From the glaciers we went on to Hokitika (but didn't stay. It's just a town, and the view is decent... but not phenomenal.) On to the pancake rocks for us! They were quite lovely. There, the water, when it crashes, splashes up on the rocks, and looks like a blowhole. It was quite a fascinating place, though we weren't really there all that long. As maybe you can see, the rocks resemble flat pancakes. Though mostly they're just flat.  



I have lots more pictures of the Pancake Rocks in Punakiki. Just ask! Some of the coolest I didn't post, but I wanted y'all to be able to see that the rocks really are flat.



After that, we drove across Arthur's Pass (my second time! I rode this time. I enjoyed the views immensely.) to return Esha to the airport and to Wellington. By myself, I drove to the Moeraki Boulders, about a three hour drive towards Dunedin, and then on to the Mount Cook area, perhaps a two to three hour drive. In the foreground of that picture down there is the inside of what the boulders look like.



I was slightly disappointed because it was raining when I woke up at Mount Cook, and I nearly decided to leave immediately. I'd planned on walking a three hour hike by myself in the Hooker Valley, but decided the views probably wouldn't be worth all of the rain. However, on a whim, I decided to check out the Tasman Glacier. The views in that area actually cleared up a little bit for me (as I left, I saw that they hadn't cleared up in the Hooker area), and I was glad I gave it a shot.
 


However, the Tasman Glacier, as Lonely Planet warned me, was ugly as dirt. (it's up there across the lake from my feet.) This is probably because it was covered in dirt! However, I do enjoy that I've seen three glaciers to date. Plus, the views of the snowy mountains was lovely. Also, the Tasman lake apparently has chunks of ice floating in it during the winter. I couldn't see any, but I think I saw some off to the sides of the lake. My mind was blown. Unfortunately, you'll have to find me when I get home to see those photos. I have to leave in fifteen minutes to make the 8 kilometers home before it gets dark.




Another side note, sorry there aren't any photos of my face. Queenstown airport's internet is slow. But free. Downtown Queenstown internet is not free. Or free 30 minutes with purchase. It takes forever to upload photos to the blog in the first place, and to upload, edit, then download takes ages. Anyways, if you so desire to see my pretty pretty face, you can do so by personal request, and I shall email you a few. Happy, silly, annoyed... I have them all.



Honestly, I'm not positive that I saw Mount Cook. This isn't it. But it was hazy directly behind me, so I'm not sure. Maybe I did. Maybe not. I'm not concerned. I saw it vaguely from Hokitika. So I'm happy enough. Thanks again for reading, or just checking out the photos. Nine more days here in New Zealand. Typing that got me choked up a little bit, even though I really want to go home.

Nine days left. 38 days until I'm home.
Mom&Dad, I miss you the most.
38 days. You will be the best Christmas present ever.
I love you.





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