"...than face all the ages of this world alone." ~Arwen

Ladiezzz and gentlefolk...

I've never blogged on paper before. At the time I actually wrote this, it was on paper. Is on paper. (Though when you read it, it won't be...) Regardless, in its original form, these words were on paper. It seems somewhat sacrilege  as if writing this way, intended for a more recent invention is wrong somehow. However, I've the time now and not the laptop, so I'll work with what I've got. Back to the 90's when everything I wrote was on paper...

People here (natives and visitors alike) refer to this place as “Oz.” I think it's cute, but I think of Oz as in “The land of,” so I get confused. Therefore, I've compromised by calling it "Auz." Where there are not lions and tigers and bears, oh my, there are crocodiles and poisonous snakes, and spiders, oh my! I left this "little" guy alone after a few photos. He was huge and made me nervous, even though he was chilling in his web. I didn't bug him!!

The message it seems I'm getting from Auz at this point in my travels is this: if everyone tells you to bring half of what you pack, you must also bring double the funds.

When I travel again, alone (it's bound to happen, I can't always have buddies to travel with), I'll remember myself in Cairns, Auz, without money to do all of the possible excursions here. There are heaps of things to do. But it all costs money. Hiking, to anywhere worth hiking, is severely limited directly from Cairns.

The reef, which, let's be honest, is the main attraction to this beach-less city, is in fact amazing. Cairns, on the other hand, well, let's just say that everyone here is hammered a significant amount of time. Another town I've visited that I don't feel I belong in. But I took the train, and that was an enjoyable journey. I liked seeing the countryside. Many farms... sugarcane and whatnot... but a few mountains too. 

After a few hours of dramatic depression from Cairns, angry journal writing, and emails to my parents (a.k.a. The people who's advice I trust most in the world), I sat down and figured out how to best spend my time here, without blowing through heaps of money I don't have. A day on the reef was mandatory. I spent the first day exploring downtown Cairns until I got hot, and then I found a cool place to read a book.

The day I spent on the reef was spectacular. Surprisingly, I got a bit seasick. Apparently medium sized boats are not friendly to me. Regardless, I enjoyed snorkeling  Skipped the actual diving, but it was gorgeous. The coral was colorful and the fish were beautiful. It wasn't quite as brilliant and vibrant as I expected, but it was still amazing. I bought a cheap disposable waterproof camera, and took a few photos. I've got more for Hawaii, so hopefully I'll get to do some snorkeling there.

I spent my third day in Cairns with koalas again. On top of the casino is a dome with a little zoo. Even though they only have a few koalas, I enjoyed sitting with them. Also, I got to see sugar gliders! They're little creatures I've only seen photos of, and almost thought were a rumor. But they're real! And so adorable. I could hardly stand it. 

Plus, I got to see a crocodile  I got there just in time to be fed, which was perfect, because before and after that, he just lay, motionless. When I first saw him, he was so still I thought he was fake. When his jaws closed on his lunch, the power was massive and terrifying.

One piece of exceedingly good luck, was that I met a girl from Scotland, and she helped organize a trip to Cape Tribulation. We found a few companions to travel with, and a trip that would have cost $150 with a tour group cost each of us $31.

It was quite a fun trip. The beaches were lovely, though you can't swim. It's jellyfish season. The kind of jellies that can kill you. I've heard that when you're stung by these jellies (that aren't even very large), it feels like your rib cage is closing in on you, and you're in crazy pain for three days. It was sad not to be able to swim, when it was so pretty.

However, even if it hadn't been jellyfish season, there are crocodiles  Though they typically stay in the estuaries, they sometimes come onto the beaches, so swimming isn't really recommended  It was a bit disconcerting to come out to the beach and see crocodile warning signs everywhere.

When I left, I walked to the airport. Airports are not very user friendly when it comes to walkers... and as I crossed over a river and saw the caution sign for crocs, I'm embarrassed to say that I was grateful to be leaving.

Before Cairns, I was in the Gold Coast. I spent just over a week there. The amazing friends of my mother's that I'm staying with took me on a day trip to the Sunshine Coast, and one to Byron Bay.

I also spent a day exploring Brisbane, and happily walked into a market with a lady selling buttons she made herself, and many other fun booths. I also ran into a garage sale of sorts. Comprised of people, blankets, and contents of suitcases, it resembled a multi-family yard sale, and they called it a “suitcase rummage.” On a downtown “square” of Brisbane. I was elated to have found it. Though I didn't buy anything, I was excited to see it. What a fun idea!

Downtown Brisbane is basically a sea of tourist shops. The ferry that goes up and down the river is exceedingly cool though, and I enjoyed it immensely. I got on just as the sun was setting, and the views were lovely. 

Most people don't think Brisbane is particularly cool, but I think it is. The downtown library is sleek and modern looking, and the museums are free, which always cheers me up. I went to the museum of modern art, and wandered around for a bit. They had a few interesting exhibits... but it was quite small, and under construction.

So far, I don't think having to pay for anything makes me love or appreciate it any more. In fact, sometimes I appreciate the things I didn't pay for more. For example, the views of the city at night. They were so spectacular, and I so enjoyed playing with my camera. And it was for free! Interestingly enough, the lit up building below used to be the government's treasury building. Now... it's a casino.

I also enjoyed playing with the sun. I didn't look through the lens though, don't worry. I did think the Ferris Wheel was quite fantastic, though I didn't go on it.

Yeah, okay, actually I just thought it was a really cool thing to take photos of. I so enjoyed it. Thank goodness for entertainment with cameras, even ones that are less than fantastic!

I also spent a day at the Lone Pine Koala sanctuary. Inhabited by more than 130 koalas, I think I found heaven. And let me tell you, it's here, just outside of Brisbane, among these amazing, adorable, precious and cuddly creatures. I spent the whole day sitting and watching them. I got to see them fed as well, which was incredible cute. They all gradually awoke, and their eyes followed their arriving food with amazing concentration. 

They also had a few babies, and I was so happy I spent so much time there, because I got to see a little baby crawl out from under the mommy and onto her back. Until that point, the baby remained hidden.

I spent a few days on the beaches as well. Surfer's Paradise was built up as everyone said... but so was Byron Bay... as everyone did not say. 

Byron Bay was cute, but I'd say most of the appeal is to go see the farthest Eastern point on mainland Australia. There's a cute lighthouse, and the wind is crazy, just like on the Northernmost point of New Zealand... and the Easternmost point of New Zealand... and the Northernmost point/ tip of Borneo...

I went on a few short walks around a place called Springbrook, where there's a pretty waterfall. There are supposed to be many spectacular views, but it was a hazy day, so the views were covered by mist and fog. I did, however, get to see a wallaby crossing the street! It did not look both ways... it just hopped across. It was so cute! The kangaroos at the zoos are lazy are motionless because they get food whether or not they move since everyone feeds them. So it was exciting to see a wallaby hopping around. Apparently they don't like direct sunlight, so it was good that it was a hazy day.

On the same trip, I also got to see a natural bridge. Formed by water and volcanic activity, the underside of it is now inhabited by glow worms! It's quite a cool place though, almost a cave with a waterfall into it, and a lake.

On my last day, the one I spent at Surfer's Paradise, I was happily greeted by a rainbow. I only ambled onto the beach one last time before I left to say goodbye. It started out hazy (I have those photos too!), and then it got more clear, and more brilliant. I think maybe it was one of the most amazing rainbows I've ever seen. If you look carefully, you can see just a twinge of a double rainbow to the right.

And as I say goodbye to Auz, here's why Sydney's airport stinks.

Or if you prefer, why the Atlanta airport is better than the Sydney airport.

1. While Atlanta doesn't have locks to bathrooms automatic (not even China and Japan do, so lay off), everything else is. Sydney? They're still in the 90's with sinks that you turn on, soap that you push down on, and a hand drier that you press to turn on. Thank god for hand sanitizer from all of the things I had to touch to clean my hands.
2. The airlines are set up really badly. It's alphabetical, but there's nothing that tells you that. In Atlanta, they're all lined up, so you just look for your airline. In Sydney, they're in little enclave type things, so you can't even tell which airline is next to you.
3. In Atlanta, there's a nice little train to take you from terminals to baggage claim. Or from domestic terminals to international terminals. Or from one end of the airport to the other. Anywhere you need to go. It's free, because it's all the Atlanta airport. No sense charging people when they just need to travel within the airport. Sydney? Nope. None of that courtesy. You want to get from the domestic to the international terminal? You get to take a bus because there aren't signs and you get to pay. $5.50. FIVE DOLLARS AND FIFTY CENTS. I could have eaten dinner for that! Sydney. STEP. IT. UP. I can't wait to get back to Atlanta.

I'm in Hawaii now. It was strange getting on my flight to Honolulu from Sydney at 6 pm on December 13^th, and arriving in Honolulu at 6 am on December 13^th. I know I've gained a day, but I'm still anxious to get home. If you wouldn't mind crossing your fingers or sending some positive vibes my way, I'm exploring some strange new possibilities while I'm here to save some cash. Hoping it all goes smoothly!

Talk to many of you... in person... so soon...
Thank you for reading, and aloha!

"I will not say 'do not weep,' for not all tears are evil." ~Gandalf

Hello friends, 

What better way to start off a blog than with presh lambs?

Minor disclaimer: as my internet is spotty and I don't always have lots of time to post, there may be a few minor spelling or grammatical errors. Though I edited the last two posts, this one may still contain a smattering. Feel free to let me know about errors, and I'll correct them as I get them.

Pretty water near Mount Manganui

A letter, associated with photos of some of my favorite places/moments...I'll caption them with where/what they are.

Sunrise on Hot Water Beach

Dearest New Zealand,

The first words I read about you when I found out I would be coming here were these: “New Zealand is young and impetuant, ready to rumble at any moment.”

Cathedral Cove

New Zealand, you are unruly and exciting. I've only been here five months, and two of your volcano have erupted in that time, and there have been countless earthquakes. The land “slips” (I love that phrase your Kiwis came up with. It's as if the land said “whoops!” and fell over.”) that pepper your mountains and countryside are common and excessive and dangerous.

Rainbow near Papamoa Beach

The rockslides are numerous. I have seen so many signs for falling rocks, watch for falling rocks, no stopping area, et cetera. It seems you aren't truly settled.

Rainbow on the way to Wellington from Napier

It makes sense. You have quite a few things going on here. Lord of the Rings, The Hobbit, Avatar, Narnia, and so many other movies were shot here. Though your population isn't huge, your Kiwis are proud.

Sunrise on East Cape

But New Zealand, this is where I'll chide you. Don't poof up your ego around strangers that your Kiwis are so spectacular. Don't send us here under false pretenses, thinking that all Kiwis are nice and friendly, and the nicest people in the world. It's not nice. Let's be honest. You have some nice people, and, like the rest of the world, you have some scum. Just be straight New Zealand. There's no reason to be proud or pompous with us. We're all flawed. People and countries alike.

Lake Waikeremoana

You are beautiful though. I sincerely mean that. I'm certain you've heard it before, so I won't elaborate, especially after reminding you not to be excessively proud.

Tongariro National Park

Your cities and towns are sweet for the most part. Though I don't believe Auckland is anything spectacular, and Queenstown doesn't feel like a part of New Zealand, many of them I like. The abundance of public toilets, and the signs to the public toilets, I appreciate immensely. 

Taking on the surf at Papamoa Beach

The creepy voices in the “fancy” public toilets creep me out though. Honestly if we have to touch something to open the door, just let us lock the door ourselves.

Sunset on 90 Mile Beach on my birthday

I am so happy to have eaten so much pie here. It is one thing I will attempt to replicate when I return home. Your pie is superb. Not everywhere, granted, but there are so many choices, and I so enjoyed it. The rest of your cuisine is fine as well...

Giant Sand Dunes, far North

Pavlova is yummy, and definitely something I'll attempt a few times in my lifetime, but I'm too much a fan of chocolate. I liked Pavolva though. It was as if I was eating a cloud. I love that.

Cape Reinga, where Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean

So New Zealand, thanks for the memories. Thanks for every blister I got on my feet (courtesy of Abel Tasman, Ben Lomond, desire for free wifi in Queenstown, and Routeburn) to remind me how great they are and how much I walked across you. I hope I stepped lightly. And I promise I didn't take that much sand, and it'll be up on a shelf when I get home to be admired by all.

All of the adorable bathroom people...

Thanks for all of the beautiful sunrises, and every breathtaking sunset, and especially for all of your beaches that brought me to my knees. I am so happy that I got to see so much of you, and that so much of you was so amazing to me. Especially that night out on the East Coast when the waves were incredible and huge and they looked so powerful. That was great.

View of beloved Wellington Harbor from Mount Victoria

And I'm glad you were kind enough to make Tim Tams be on sale so often so that I could buy some to bring home. I'll be doing Tim Tam slams with all of you in less than a month. (Mom, we'll go for a huge walk out on Piedmont Park, before going to Trader Joe's, then we can come home and do Tim Tam slams.)

Mount Taranaki, taken from a bus

And thank you, for, on my last day in New Zealand, opening up the heavens and letting me buy a few pie dishes for myself so that I can make pie when I get home.

Hiking Abel Tasman

New Zealand, thank you, more than anything, for making me so happy and excited about my own country. I can't wait to go home and explore it some more.

Abel Tasman National Park

I love you, I'll be seeing you,  

Near Christchurch

View from Remarkables Ski area, near Queenstown

Near Tasman Glacier, near Mount Cook

View from Ben Lomond, Mount Christina on the left

Key Summit of Routeburn 

It's been real New Zealand.
Thanks for reading my kiwi adventures all!
Now off to Auz.

"Don't be hasty..." ~Treebeard

Dearest Folks... 

I wrote this three days ago. I'm about to leave. My flight leaves in almost exactly one hour. Nevertheless, I have maintained what I wrote, so you get the essence of my words. It was an emotional time for me, and I'd still like to express that... 

Oh the haziness of Routeburn. I hiked starting at eight, and had a bus to pick me up at three. I stayed at the top for approximately three hours eating lunch and waiting for the view to improve. Which it did, in stages and so forth. The clouds moved around... etc...

I have, as of today, only two full days left in New Zealand. While part of me is sad by this fact, another part of me is relieved as I am a few days closer to coming home, and being reunited with my parents' fast, free (so to speak) unlimited internet.

Tonight, I am in Wanaka. I love Wanaka. The mountains on the lake are even prettier than the “Remarkables” in Queenstown. Or maybe I just really don't like Queenstown. True. However, I have found $4 internet for 24 hours of wireless. I find this truly remarkable. Did I mention that I love Wanaka?

WANAKA

I haven't actually purchased the internet. Tomorrow I'll be in Christchurch, where internet at McDonald's is free, and since I'll only be here a few hours, there isn't any point in paying for the 24 hours when I can only take advantage of a few.

Sunset in Wanaka!

Anyways. I'm stoked to be back, if only for a night. I'm going to make the most of it. And with that—off to the magical New World of fantastic reduced to clear prices, and then to climb Mount Iron, at 740 meters, hardly a mount, but I just don't have time for anything else.

In the last few days, I...

I also went back to Te Anau, so I could check out the Routeburn Track. Though I didn't have enough time to hike the entirety of the trail, I hiked to the Key Summit. However, it is not so titled because of its height, or its height in relation to the track. It was only 919 meters high. The hour and a half hike took me an hour, and I was ambling.

The Key Summit is so titled because it is the “key” to three major rives of the Southland: the Hollyford River, the Greenstone-Clutha river, and the Eglinton-Waiau River. The Hollyford flows out to the West Coast, the Eglinton Waiau flows out to the South Coast, and the Greenstone Clutha flows to the East Coast. Cool, huh? I found it quite fascinating, though the views of the Fiords weren't quite spectacular. They were nice though. I may have gotten a better view of Mount Christina.

It's quite shy though. I'm exceedingly amused that Mount Christina is shy, just like me. It stayed hidden in the clouds only making momentary appearances. But that was fine with me. When I return to New Zealand, universe willing, I shall hike to the top of Mount Christina.

The Routeburn track was interesting though. I ran into an elderly man putting gravel down on the track, and he asked if I was interested in plants. Curious, I said I liked them alright, but he didn't have anything more to share on the subject. We shared small talk, and I continued on my way.

I realized then, kneeling down to take a photo of some moss, that was why he asked if I liked plants. I kept stopping to take pictures of them. There was moss that resembled Spanish Moss, though it resembled a lilac in color, and had little black dots all over it. My camera couldn't do it justice.

It was so lush and fabulously green. Moss and growths (not the gross kind) covered many of the trees, and it was quite moist everywhere. It could have been a rainforest. It must be a fun hike, though I bet you get wet, since they get so much rain down there.

Before I return to this place though, I'll have to figure out a better way to get to all of these hikes. The track transports work in theory. But I couldn't help but think that my ticket alone would have paid for the gas of the bus. I am certain they are making 300% profits on us poor, helpless tourists.

It's sad, in a way. For all of the families with North Face jackets and macpac backpacks (no offense if you have them, they're good stuffs, fer shore.) and high quality everything, it's not. They have the money. But for the rest of us, you think you're doing a hike. You're camping. You're walking though National Parks. It's got to cheap. Right? No. It's not. Huts are $32, and camping is $16. That's per night, per person. Transport can cost anywhere from $35 one way to $60 one way. And you have to go two ways. That's pretty steep for roughing it.

We might as well go bungy jumping.

Water basically flowed off every area of this place. It was so wet.

Erneways. Today, I left Queenstown for good. How unfortunate. No, okay, that was sarcasm  I apologize. Sarcasm isn't transmitted well through written words, so I shouldn't mess around. Regardless, I am thrilled to be out of Queenstown, for not even my final experience was not positive one.

Lol congrats?

It's a short and annoying story regarding an incompetent little girl working at the YHA. I shan't bore you. Finally I made it to Wanaka, only three hours later than I'd hoped. In the Rough Guides New Zealand guidebook, as lent to me by my father, these words describe Queenstown: “In a way, Queenstown is a victim of its own popularity.”

I whole-heartedly agree.

Oh Wanaka, you shall be sorely missed.

Tomorrow I'll go on to Christchurch, where I'll spend my last two nights in New Zealand. I'm nervous to leave this place. Strange as it is, I've grown accustomed to whining about slow and spotty internet, figuring out how to avoid tourist spots, and hiking more than my legs want me to hike every day.

I feel like Henry Higgins when Eliza Dolittle left.

By the way! Let's play a game. I've never asked anything of you. I have a general idea of who's reading from who talks to me, but I just spoke to my home land (E.T. Phone home...), and found out someone is reading it whom I didn't expect.

And so, if you read this (and I'll assume you did), text me, message me, write on my facebook wall, mail a postcard to my house, email me, whatever with the following word and I'll bring you a treat the next time I see you. 

Peony.

I'll post one last time before I leave New Zealand.

Talk to you soon...